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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientAntioxidant

Vitamin C

INCI: Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C) is the most potent and well-researched form of topical vitamin C. It is a water-soluble antioxidant that plays a critical role in collagen synthesis, neutralises free radicals from UV exposure, and inhibits tyrosinase to reduce melanin production. It requires a low pH (below 3.5) for optimal skin penetration and is notoriously unstable, oxidising rapidly when exposed to light and air.

Category

Antioxidant

Irritation Risk

Medium

Skin Types

hyperpigmentation, dull skin, ageing skin, sun-damaged skin, oily skin, normal skin

What does this do in a formula?

antioxidant protection, collagen synthesis, UV damage reduction, skin brightening, hyperpigmentation fading, anti-ageing, photoprotection (with sunscreen)

Is Vitamin C safe? Key considerations

Can Vitamin C cause irritation?

Medium Risk

At concentrations above 10%, may cause stinging, tingling, or redness, especially on sensitive skin. The low pH required for efficacy (below 3.5) can be irritating. Start with lower concentrations (5-10%) and build tolerance.

Does Vitamin C increase sun sensitivity?

No Risk

Ascorbic acid does not increase photosensitivity. It provides photoprotective benefits and reduces UV-induced damage. Should still be used with sunscreen for best results.

Is Vitamin C safe during pregnancy?

Safe

Vitamin C is considered safe for topical use during pregnancy. It is a naturally occurring vitamin with no documented reproductive concerns at cosmetic concentrations.

How does Vitamin C work?

Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C) is the most potent and well-researched form of topical vitamin C. It is a water-soluble antioxidant that plays a critical role in collagen synthesis, neutralises free radicals from UV exposure, and inhibits tyrosinase to reduce melanin production. It requires a low pH (below 3.5) for optimal skin penetration and is notoriously unstable, oxidising rapidly when exposed to light and air.

Individuals with very sensitive skin (start with lower concentrations), open wounds, active dermatitis should review the considerations above before use.