Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientAntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate is a synthetic, fat-soluble ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and palmitic acid, first commercialised in the 1960s as an antioxidant in food and pharmaceuticals. Unlike pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), it is oil-soluble and stable at neutral pH, making it easier to formulate into creams and emulsions. It acts by neutralising free radicals and binding to cell membranes to protect lipids from oxidative damage, though evidence for its conversion into active vitamin C within skin is limited.
Category
Antioxidant
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, oily, combination, acne-prone, hyperpigmentation, dull skin, anti-ageing concerns, sensitive skin (with patch test)
What does this do in a formula?
antioxidant protection, free radical neutralisation, anti-inflammatory, melanin inhibition, brightening, collagen stimulation, sebum regulation, moisturising
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate safe? Key considerations
Can Ascorbyl Palmitate cause irritation?
Low RiskIrritancy rating of 0 (INCIDecoder). Less irritating than pure L-ascorbic acid, which requires a low pH environment that can itself cause stinging. Rare cases of mild redness, itching, or burning have been reported, particularly in individuals with sensitive or reactive skin. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply to ascorbyl palmitate.
Does Ascorbyl Palmitate increase sun sensitivity?
No RiskAscorbyl palmitate is not known to increase photosensitivity. Unlike AHAs and retinoids, it does not accelerate skin cell turnover. It is commonly included in sunscreen formulations as an antioxidant booster. No additional sun protection is required specifically due to this ingredient.
Is Ascorbyl Palmitate safe during pregnancy?
CautionIn silico (computational) modelling predicts ascorbyl palmitate is not a reproductive toxicant, and no clinical evidence of harm during pregnancy or breastfeeding has been identified (Motherfigure). However, robust clinical trial data is absent. Conservative guidance is to consult a healthcare provider; low-concentration topical use is generally considered low risk.
How does Ascorbyl Palmitate work?
Ascorbyl palmitate is a synthetic, fat-soluble ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and palmitic acid, first commercialised in the 1960s as an antioxidant in food and pharmaceuticals. Unlike pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), it is oil-soluble and stable at neutral pH, making it easier to formulate into creams and emulsions. It acts by neutralising free radicals and binding to cell membranes to protect lipids from oxidative damage, though evidence for its conversion into active vitamin C within skin is limited.
Individuals with known vitamin C allergy should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Ascorbyl Palmitate?
Shop products that contain Ascorbyl Palmitate
