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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientSoothing Agent

Bisabolol

INCI: Alpha-Bisabolol

Alpha-bisabolol (also known as levomenol) is a naturally occurring monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol found in German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) and other plants, appearing as a clear, colourless oily liquid with a faint nutty aroma. It works primarily as an anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing agent by suppressing key inflammatory pathways including NF-κB, COX-2, and TNF-α signalling. It also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients and has demonstrated wound-healing and skin-barrier-supporting properties in clinical studies.

Category

Soothing Agent

Irritation Risk

Low

Skin Types

all skin types, sensitive, dry, irritated, rosacea-prone, acne-prone, eczema-prone, post-procedure skin

What does this do in a formula?

anti-inflammatory, soothing, calming redness and irritation, wound healing, skin barrier support, antioxidant, humectant, improves skin texture, reduces flaking, enhances penetration of actives

Is Bisabolol safe? Key considerations

Can Bisabolol cause irritation?

Low Risk

Bisabolol has an exceptionally low irritation profile. Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) at 5500 μg/cm² showed no sensitisation. The CIR Expert Panel concluded it is safe as used in cosmetics. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply. Individuals with known allergies to chamomile or related Asteraceae plants (e.g. ragweed) should patch test, as cross-reactivity is possible.

Does Bisabolol increase sun sensitivity?

No Risk

Bisabolol does not increase photosensitivity. No photosensitisation was observed in safety studies. No special sun protection measures are required based solely on its presence in a formulation.

Is Bisabolol safe during pregnancy?

Safe

Topical application of bisabolol is generally considered safe during pregnancy. No reproductive or developmental toxicity is expected at cosmetic concentrations (typically 0.5–1%). Animal studies only showed adverse developmental effects at very high oral doses (1000 mg/kg/day), far exceeding any cosmetic exposure. The Motherfigure database notes limited data but no known risk for topical use. As with any skincare ingredient during pregnancy, consult a healthcare provider if in doubt.

How does Bisabolol work?

Alpha-bisabolol (also known as levomenol) is a naturally occurring monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol found in German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) and other plants, appearing as a clear, colourless oily liquid with a faint nutty aroma. It works primarily as an anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing agent by suppressing key inflammatory pathways including NF-κB, COX-2, and TNF-α signalling. It also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients and has demonstrated wound-healing and skin-barrier-supporting properties in clinical studies.

Individuals with chamomile allergy, Asteraceae/ragweed allergy (patch test first) should review the considerations above before use.