Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientAlpha Hydroxy AcidCitric Acid
INCI: Citric Acid
Citric acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from citrus fruits, where it gives lemons and oranges their characteristic tartness. In skincare it is most commonly used at low concentrations as a pH adjuster and chelating agent to stabilise formulations, but at higher concentrations (typically 10–20%) it acts as an exfoliant, loosening bonds between dead skin cells to improve texture and brightness. It is considered the weakest of the commonly used AHAs — less potent than glycolic or lactic acid — making it a gentler option for exfoliation.
Category
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, oily, acne-prone, dull skin, hyperpigmentation, sensitive skin (at low concentrations)
What does this do in a formula?
pH adjustment, gentle exfoliation, brightening, smoothing texture, antioxidant, chelating, fading hyperpigmentation
Is Citric Acid safe? Key considerations
Can Citric Acid cause irritation?
Low RiskAt typical cosmetic concentrations (below 4% in leave-on products) citric acid is well tolerated by most skin types and is not considered irritating to normal skin. At higher concentrations it can cause redness, stinging or peeling, particularly on sensitive, chapped or inflamed skin. The CIR Expert Panel and EU SCCS have determined it is safe at up to 10% in leave-on products at pH ≥ 3.5. No EU Annex II (banned) or Annex III (restricted) classification applies.
Does Citric Acid increase sun sensitivity?
Caution RiskAs an AHA, citric acid can increase skin photosensitivity at exfoliating concentrations. Daily use of SPF 30+ is recommended when using leave-on products with citric acid above trace/pH-adjusting amounts. At the low concentrations used for pH adjustment the photosensitivity risk is minimal.
Is Citric Acid safe during pregnancy?
SafeCitric acid is broadly considered safe during pregnancy. AHAs as a category are regarded as safe for topical use in pregnancy, and citric acid's limited systemic absorption at cosmetic concentrations poses no known reproductive or developmental risk. Motherfigure and dermatology sources note no specific contraindications. High-concentration professional peels are best avoided as a general precaution.
How does Citric Acid work?
Citric acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from citrus fruits, where it gives lemons and oranges their characteristic tartness. In skincare it is most commonly used at low concentrations as a pH adjuster and chelating agent to stabilise formulations, but at higher concentrations (typically 10–20%) it acts as an exfoliant, loosening bonds between dead skin cells to improve texture and brightness. It is considered the weakest of the commonly used AHAs — less potent than glycolic or lactic acid — making it a gentler option for exfoliation.
Individuals with open wounds, active sunburn, chapped or cracked skin, known citrus allergy (rare), very high concentrations on rosacea or eczema-affected skin should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Citric Acid?
Shop products that contain Citric Acid
Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturiser
Starter Retinol Serum
Caffeine Eye Cream
Omega Water Cream
Supersize Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Supersize Omega Water Cream
Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum
10% Niacinamide Serum
Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Hydrating Face Mist
Collagen Peptide Serum
Glycerin Gentle Purifying Cleanser
Retinol Eye Cream
Blemish Clearing Moisturiser with 2% Novoretin
PHA Toner
10% Urea Moisturiser
Oily Skin Cleanser
Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser
PRO Redness Prone Skin Cleansing Facial Wash
PRO Itch Prone Skin Body Wash
Gentle Skin Cleanser
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Gentle Exfoliating Salicylic Acid Cleanser, For Face & Body
Hydrating Foaming Cream Cleanser
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Soothing Foam Wash
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides)
Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum
Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA
PHA 5% Exfoliating Lip Serum
Natural Moisturizing Factors + PhytoCeramides
Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner
Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
Natural Moisturizing Factors + Beta Glucan
GF 15% Solution
AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
Sulfur 10% Powder-to-Cream Concentrate
Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Natural Moisturizing Factors + Inulin Body Lotion
Marine Hyaluronics
Niacinamide 5% Face and Body Emulsion
Amino Acids + B5
Balancing & Clarifying Serum
Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum
Salicylic Acid 0.5% Body Serum
Multi-Active Delivery Essence
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (Original Formulation)
