Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientAmphoteric SurfactantINCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is a mild amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil, carrying both positive and negative charges simultaneously. This dual-charge property allows it to reduce surface tension between water and oils, enabling effective yet gentle cleansing. It is widely used in facial cleansers, shampoos, and body washes as a primary or secondary surfactant, where it also contributes foam stabilisation, viscosity enhancement, and mild conditioning.
Category
Amphoteric Surfactant
Irritation Risk
Medium
Skin Types
normal, oily, combination, acne-prone, most skin types
gentle cleansing, foam stabilisation, viscosity enhancement, antistatic, mild conditioning, reduces irritation potential of harsher surfactants
Generally considered one of the milder surfactants, but CAPB was named 'Allergen of the Year' by the American Contact Dermatitis Society in 2004. Contact sensitisation is documented in 0.27–7.2% of dermatitis patients, with reactions often attributed to manufacturing impurities — primarily dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA) and sodium monochloroacetate residuals — rather than pure CAPB. At full concentration it can cause mild skin and eye irritation; at typical cosmetic use concentrations it is well tolerated by most. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply. Individuals with known sensitisation or coconut allergy should patch test.
Cocamidopropyl betaine is not a photosensitising ingredient and does not increase UV sensitivity. No sun protection precautions are required based on its presence in a formulation.
Limited pregnancy-specific data is available. Animal studies found developmental effects only at high doses (LOAEL 40–250 mg/kg depending on betaine type), far above typical cosmetic exposure. The CIR Expert Panel considers alkyl betaines safe when formulated to be non-irritating. Most sources consider topical use at standard cosmetic concentrations low risk during pregnancy, but due to limited human data, consulting a healthcare provider is advisable. (Sources: Motherfigure, CIR Safety Assessment.)
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is a mild amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil, carrying both positive and negative charges simultaneously. This dual-charge property allows it to reduce surface tension between water and oils, enabling effective yet gentle cleansing. It is widely used in facial cleansers, shampoos, and body washes as a primary or secondary surfactant, where it also contributes foam stabilisation, viscosity enhancement, and mild conditioning.
Individuals with known sensitisation to CAPB or dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA), coconut allergy (rare cross-reactivity), atopic dermatitis (increased sensitivity risk), sensitive skin without patch testing should review the considerations above before use.
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