Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Active IngredientAlpha Hydroxy AcidINCI: Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), derived from sugarcane. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more easily and revealing fresher skin beneath. With regular use it also stimulates collagen synthesis, increasing skin thickness and firmness over time.
Typical Concentration
Best For Skin Types
CAS Number
79-14-1
Can cause stinging, burning, redness, and peeling, particularly at concentrations above 10% or below pH 3.5. Sensitive skin types should patch test and start with lower concentrations. EU Annex III restricts leave-on products to a maximum of 10% at pH ≥3.5, with mandatory label warnings (SCCS opinions 0370/00 and 0799/04).
AHAs increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. SPF 30+ broad-spectrum sunscreen should be used daily during glycolic acid treatment. The EU Annex III restriction includes a mandatory warning to use sun protection.
Low-concentration leave-on products (under 10%) are generally considered low risk during pregnancy as systemic absorption is minimal. Professional-strength treatments (above 20%) should be avoided. There are no robust controlled pregnancy studies; consult a healthcare provider before use.
Glycolic Acid is a alpha hydroxy acid active used across a range of concentrations depending on the application and product format.
Particularly beneficial for oily and acne-prone and hyperpigmentation and dull skin and anti-ageing concerns and uneven texture skin.
Individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, active skin irritation, open wounds, active sunburn should review the considerations above before use.
A step-by-step guide to introducing Glycolic Acid into your skincare routine safely and effectively.
Start with a product containing 4–10% in OTC leave-on products (EU max 10% at pH ≥3.5). Lower concentrations are better for beginners or sensitive skin.
Glycolic Acid has a medium irritation risk. Apply a small amount to your inner forearm and wait 24 hours before using it on your face.
Start by using Glycolic Acid 2–3 times per week in the evening. If your skin tolerates it well after 2 weeks, you can increase frequency.
Glycolic Acid increases sun sensitivity, so use it in your evening routine. If you use it during the day, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is essential.
After Glycolic Acid has absorbed, apply a moisturiser to support your skin barrier. This is especially important when using active ingredients.
While using Glycolic Acid, apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning, even on cloudy days. Reapply every 2 hours if you're spending time outdoors.
Research references for this ingredient are coming soon.
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