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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Active IngredientAlpha Hydroxy Acid

Lactic Acid

INCI: Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is the second most well-researched alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), naturally found in milk and fermented foods. It has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly and gently while still effectively loosening the bonds between dead skin cells. Uniquely among AHAs, lactic acid also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.

Typical Concentration

5–10%for gentle daily exfoliation
10–15%for anti-ageing and firming
optimal pH 3–4
up to 12%in leave-on OTC products per EU guidance

Best For Skin Types

drysensitivedull skinhyperpigmentationuneven texturemature skinanti-ageing concernsmost skin types

CAS Number

50-21-5

What are the benefits of Lactic Acid?

exfoliation
brightening
hydration
smoothing texture
fading hyperpigmentation
improving skin firmness
anti-ageing

Is Lactic Acid safe? Key considerations

Can Lactic Acid cause irritation?

Low Risk

Lactic acid is one of the gentlest AHAs due to its larger molecule size, causing less stinging and burning than glycolic acid at equivalent concentrations. It is well-suited to sensitive skin types that struggle to tolerate stronger exfoliants. EU Annex III restricts AHAs in cosmetics: leave-on products must carry a sun sensitivity warning.

Does Lactic Acid increase sun sensitivity?

Yes Risk

As an AHA, lactic acid increases skin photosensitivity by removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells. Daily use of SPF 30+ is essential during and for at least one week after treatment to prevent UV-induced damage.

Is Lactic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Caution

Low-concentration lactic acid (under 10%) in leave-on products is generally considered low risk during pregnancy. Professional-strength peels should be avoided. It is advisable to consult a healthcare provider, though topical AHAs at OTC concentrations are widely considered acceptable by dermatologists.

How does Lactic Acid work?

Lactic Acid is a alpha hydroxy acid active used across a range of concentrations depending on the application and product format.

Particularly beneficial for dry and sensitive and dull skin and hyperpigmentation and uneven texture and mature skin and anti-ageing concerns and most skin types skin.

Individuals with active skin wounds or irritation, very sensitive skin (patch test first), use alongside other AHAs or BHAs (avoid layering on same application) should review the considerations above before use.

How do you use Lactic Acid in your routine?

A step-by-step guide to introducing Lactic Acid into your skincare routine safely and effectively.

01

Choose the right concentration

Start with a product containing 5–10% for gentle daily exfoliation. Lower concentrations are better for beginners or sensitive skin.

02

Introduce gradually

Lactic Acid is generally well tolerated. Start by applying once daily and adjust based on how your skin responds.

03

Apply in the evening

Lactic Acid increases sun sensitivity, so use it in your evening routine. If you use it during the day, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is essential.

04

Follow with moisturiser

After Lactic Acid has absorbed, apply a moisturiser to support your skin barrier. This is especially important when using active ingredients.

05

Wear SPF daily

While using Lactic Acid, apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning, even on cloudy days. Reapply every 2 hours if you're spending time outdoors.

Science & Research

Research references for this ingredient are coming soon.