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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientAlpha Hydroxy Acid

Malic Acid

INCI: Malic Acid

Malic acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples, pears, and other fruits. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface, promoting gentle exfoliation to reveal smoother, brighter skin. With a larger molecular size than glycolic or lactic acid, it penetrates less deeply, making it one of the gentler AHAs available in cosmetic formulations.

Category

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

Irritation Risk

Low

Skin Types

all skin types, sensitive skin, dry skin, dull skin, hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, anti-ageing concerns

What does this do in a formula?

exfoliation, brightening, smoothing texture, fading hyperpigmentation, pH buffering, improving skin tone

Is Malic Acid safe? Key considerations

Can Malic Acid cause irritation?

Low Risk

Malic acid is generally considered milder than glycolic or lactic acid owing to its larger molecular size, which limits skin penetration depth. Stinging, redness, or tingling can still occur at higher concentrations or on sensitive skin. No specific EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply to malic acid in cosmetics; it is listed in CosIng as an exfoliant and buffering agent.

Does Malic Acid increase sun sensitivity?

Yes Risk

As an AHA, malic acid increases photosensitivity by removing the outermost layers of dead skin cells. FDA research found AHA use can increase UV sensitivity by 18% and double susceptibility to UV-induced cellular damage. Daily use of SPF 30+ is recommended when using malic acid-containing leave-on products.

Is Malic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Caution

Low-concentration malic acid in rinse-off or leave-on formulations is generally considered low risk during pregnancy, in line with other AHAs. Professional-strength peels should be avoided. As with all AHAs during pregnancy, consult a healthcare provider before use. No specific reproductive toxicity flags are noted in available safety data.

How does Malic Acid work?

Malic acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples, pears, and other fruits. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface, promoting gentle exfoliation to reveal smoother, brighter skin. With a larger molecular size than glycolic or lactic acid, it penetrates less deeply, making it one of the gentler AHAs available in cosmetic formulations.

Individuals with active skin wounds, sunburned skin, known sensitivity to AHAs should review the considerations above before use.