Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientAlpha Hydroxy AcidINCI: Malic Acid
Malic acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples, pears, and other fruits. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface, promoting gentle exfoliation to reveal smoother, brighter skin. With a larger molecular size than glycolic or lactic acid, it penetrates less deeply, making it one of the gentler AHAs available in cosmetic formulations.
Category
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, sensitive skin, dry skin, dull skin, hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, anti-ageing concerns
exfoliation, brightening, smoothing texture, fading hyperpigmentation, pH buffering, improving skin tone
Malic acid is generally considered milder than glycolic or lactic acid owing to its larger molecular size, which limits skin penetration depth. Stinging, redness, or tingling can still occur at higher concentrations or on sensitive skin. No specific EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply to malic acid in cosmetics; it is listed in CosIng as an exfoliant and buffering agent.
As an AHA, malic acid increases photosensitivity by removing the outermost layers of dead skin cells. FDA research found AHA use can increase UV sensitivity by 18% and double susceptibility to UV-induced cellular damage. Daily use of SPF 30+ is recommended when using malic acid-containing leave-on products.
Low-concentration malic acid in rinse-off or leave-on formulations is generally considered low risk during pregnancy, in line with other AHAs. Professional-strength peels should be avoided. As with all AHAs during pregnancy, consult a healthcare provider before use. No specific reproductive toxicity flags are noted in available safety data.
Malic acid is a naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) found in apples, pears, and other fruits. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface, promoting gentle exfoliation to reveal smoother, brighter skin. With a larger molecular size than glycolic or lactic acid, it penetrates less deeply, making it one of the gentler AHAs available in cosmetic formulations.
Individuals with active skin wounds, sunburned skin, known sensitivity to AHAs should review the considerations above before use.
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