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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Active IngredientAlpha Hydroxy Acid

Mandelic Acid

INCI: Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds, named from the German word 'mandel' meaning almond. It has a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly and superficially, making it one of the gentler AHAs available. It works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells to promote exfoliation, while also providing antibacterial action that helps address acne-prone skin.

Typical Concentration

5–10%in OTC leave-on products (daily use)
up to 50%in professional chemical peels
effective at pH 3–4

Best For Skin Types

sensitive skinacne-prone skinoily skinhyperpigmentationpost-inflammatory hyperpigmentationdull skinuneven texture

CAS Number

90-64-2

What are the benefits of Mandelic Acid?

gentle exfoliation
skin brightening
fading hyperpigmentation
smoothing texture
anti-acne
reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Is Mandelic Acid safe? Key considerations

Can Mandelic Acid cause irritation?

Low Risk

Well-tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin due to its larger molecular size and slower penetration compared to glycolic acid. Irritation is possible at high concentrations or with overuse. Classified as antimicrobial by CosIng (EC number 202-007-6); no Annex II or III restrictions noted.

Does Mandelic Acid increase sun sensitivity?

Yes Risk

As an AHA, mandelic acid increases photosensitivity by accelerating cell turnover and removing the outermost protective skin layers. Daily use of SPF 30+ is strongly recommended during treatment. The ingredient is also inherently light-sensitive and should be stored in opaque packaging to maintain stability.

Is Mandelic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Caution

Specific clinical safety data for mandelic acid in pregnancy is limited. As an AHA used at low concentrations (under 10%) in leave-on products, it is generally considered low systemic risk due to minimal absorption. However, high-concentration professional peels should be avoided. Consult a healthcare provider before use during pregnancy. (Source: general AHA guidance; no mandelic-acid-specific MotherToBaby fact sheet available.)

How does Mandelic Acid work?

Mandelic Acid is a alpha hydroxy acid active used across a range of concentrations depending on the application and product format.

Particularly beneficial for sensitive skin and acne-prone skin and oily skin and hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and dull skin and uneven texture skin.

Individuals with open wounds, active sunburn, known allergy to almonds or benzyl compounds should review the considerations above before use.

How do you use Mandelic Acid in your routine?

A step-by-step guide to introducing Mandelic Acid into your skincare routine safely and effectively.

01

Choose the right concentration

Start with a product containing 5–10% in OTC leave-on products (daily use). Lower concentrations are better for beginners or sensitive skin.

02

Introduce gradually

Mandelic Acid is generally well tolerated. Start by applying once daily and adjust based on how your skin responds.

03

Apply in the evening

Mandelic Acid increases sun sensitivity, so use it in your evening routine. If you use it during the day, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is essential.

04

Follow with moisturiser

After Mandelic Acid has absorbed, apply a moisturiser to support your skin barrier. This is especially important when using active ingredients.

05

Wear SPF daily

While using Mandelic Acid, apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning, even on cloudy days. Reapply every 2 hours if you're spending time outdoors.

Science & Research

Research references for this ingredient are coming soon.