Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientSkin Brightening Agent, Emulsifier, AntimicrobialOctadecenedioic Acid
INCI: Octadecenedioic Acid
Octadecenedioic acid (also known as dioic acid or ODAwhite) is a monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid produced by the biofermentation of oleic acid, with a molecular structure similar to azelaic acid but with a longer carbon chain. It works by binding to peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR), which reduces tyrosinase mRNA expression and consequently lowers melanin production, resulting in skin brightening. It also exhibits potent antimicrobial activity against acne-causing bacteria (P. acnes), estimated to be 50-fold more active than azelaic acid at comparable concentrations.
Category
Skin Brightening Agent, Emulsifier, Antimicrobial
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
oily, acne-prone, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, melasma, skin of colour, sensitive skin
What does this do in a formula?
skin brightening, hyperpigmentation reduction, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, sebum regulation, anti-ageing, emulsifying
Is Octadecenedioic Acid safe? Key considerations
Can Octadecenedioic Acid cause irritation?
Low RiskWell tolerated by all skin types. Clinical studies demonstrated no somatosensory adverse effects (no stinging, burning, or scaling), making it gentler than azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide at comparable efficacy levels. No EU Annex II or III restrictions identified.
Does Octadecenedioic Acid increase sun sensitivity?
No RiskNot classified as a photosensitising ingredient. No evidence of increased photosensitivity from available research. SPF use is still recommended when treating hyperpigmentation to prevent further darkening.
Is Octadecenedioic Acid safe during pregnancy?
CautionNo specific pregnancy safety data is available for octadecenedioic acid in published literature. As a precaution, consult a healthcare provider before use during pregnancy. It is not listed among ingredients known to be harmful in pregnancy, but the absence of safety data warrants caution.
How does Octadecenedioic Acid work?
Octadecenedioic acid (also known as dioic acid or ODAwhite) is a monounsaturated dicarboxylic acid produced by the biofermentation of oleic acid, with a molecular structure similar to azelaic acid but with a longer carbon chain. It works by binding to peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR), which reduces tyrosinase mRNA expression and consequently lowers melanin production, resulting in skin brightening. It also exhibits potent antimicrobial activity against acne-causing bacteria (P. acnes), estimated to be 50-fold more active than azelaic acid at comparable concentrations.
Individuals with known sensitivity to dicarboxylic acids; consult a healthcare provider if pregnant should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Octadecenedioic Acid?
Shop products that contain Octadecenedioic Acid
