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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientAmino Acid

Phenylalanine

INCI: Phenylalanine

Phenylalanine is an essential amino acid that the human body cannot synthesise and must obtain from external sources. In skincare, it is classified as a skin-identical ingredient that supports the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF). It has also been studied in combination with UVA exposure for the treatment of vitiligo.

Category

Amino Acid

Irritation Risk

Low

Skin Types

all skin types, dry skin, dehydrated skin, sensitive skin

What does this do in a formula?

skin conditioning, moisturisation, skin-identical hydration, supports natural moisturising factor

Is Phenylalanine safe? Key considerations

Can Phenylalanine cause irritation?

Low Risk

Phenylalanine has an excellent safety profile with a CIR rating of A and an EWG hazard score of 1. No irritation concerns have been documented at cosmetic-use concentrations. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply.

Does Phenylalanine increase sun sensitivity?

No Risk

Phenylalanine does not increase photosensitivity. Note: when used therapeutically for vitiligo treatment, it is combined with UVA exposure, but this is a medical application and not a concern in standard cosmetic use.

Is Phenylalanine safe during pregnancy?

Safe

Phenylalanine is a naturally occurring essential amino acid present in the human body. No documented reproductive or developmental concerns for topical cosmetic use. Individuals with phenylketonuria (PKU) should consult a healthcare provider, though topical absorption is minimal.

How does Phenylalanine work?

Phenylalanine is an essential amino acid that the human body cannot synthesise and must obtain from external sources. In skincare, it is classified as a skin-identical ingredient that supports the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF). It has also been studied in combination with UVA exposure for the treatment of vitiligo.