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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientHumectant

Polyglutamic Acid

INCI: Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a naturally derived, high-molecular-weight amino acid polymer produced through bacterial fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. It functions as a powerful humectant and film-forming agent, capable of holding up to 5,000 times its weight in water — significantly more than hyaluronic acid. Its large molecular size means it primarily acts on the skin surface, forming a moisture-retaining film that reduces transepidermal water loss and plumps the appearance of fine lines.

Category

Humectant

Irritation Risk

Low

Skin Types

all skin types, dry, dehydrated, dull, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, anti-ageing concerns

What does this do in a formula?

intense hydration, moisture retention, skin plumping, smoothing fine lines, antioxidant delivery, skin barrier support, anti-ageing

Is Polyglutamic Acid safe? Key considerations

Can Polyglutamic Acid cause irritation?

Low Risk

Patch test studies on volunteers showed no erythema, oedema, or itching. It is non-genotoxic and does not cause skin sensitisation. Concentrations above 3% are not recommended as they may weaken the skin matrix and cause redness in some individuals. Well tolerated by sensitive and reactive skin types at standard cosmetic concentrations (0.3–3%).

Does Polyglutamic Acid increase sun sensitivity?

No Risk

Polyglutamic acid does not increase photosensitivity. Unlike some humectants or AHAs, it does not sensitise skin to UV exposure. No SPF precautions are required based on its presence in a formulation.

Is Polyglutamic Acid safe during pregnancy?

Safe

Polyglutamic acid is considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is a naturally occurring amino acid polymer with no reported adverse reproductive or developmental effects. As with any new product, consulting a healthcare provider is recommended before introducing it during pregnancy.

How does Polyglutamic Acid work?

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a naturally derived, high-molecular-weight amino acid polymer produced through bacterial fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. It functions as a powerful humectant and film-forming agent, capable of holding up to 5,000 times its weight in water — significantly more than hyaluronic acid. Its large molecular size means it primarily acts on the skin surface, forming a moisture-retaining film that reduces transepidermal water loss and plumps the appearance of fine lines.