Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientHumectantINCI: Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a naturally derived, high-molecular-weight amino acid polymer produced through bacterial fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. It functions as a powerful humectant and film-forming agent, capable of holding up to 5,000 times its weight in water — significantly more than hyaluronic acid. Its large molecular size means it primarily acts on the skin surface, forming a moisture-retaining film that reduces transepidermal water loss and plumps the appearance of fine lines.
Category
Humectant
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, dry, dehydrated, dull, sensitive, oily, acne-prone, anti-ageing concerns
intense hydration, moisture retention, skin plumping, smoothing fine lines, antioxidant delivery, skin barrier support, anti-ageing
Patch test studies on volunteers showed no erythema, oedema, or itching. It is non-genotoxic and does not cause skin sensitisation. Concentrations above 3% are not recommended as they may weaken the skin matrix and cause redness in some individuals. Well tolerated by sensitive and reactive skin types at standard cosmetic concentrations (0.3–3%).
Polyglutamic acid does not increase photosensitivity. Unlike some humectants or AHAs, it does not sensitise skin to UV exposure. No SPF precautions are required based on its presence in a formulation.
Polyglutamic acid is considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is a naturally occurring amino acid polymer with no reported adverse reproductive or developmental effects. As with any new product, consulting a healthcare provider is recommended before introducing it during pregnancy.
Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a naturally derived, high-molecular-weight amino acid polymer produced through bacterial fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. It functions as a powerful humectant and film-forming agent, capable of holding up to 5,000 times its weight in water — significantly more than hyaluronic acid. Its large molecular size means it primarily acts on the skin surface, forming a moisture-retaining film that reduces transepidermal water loss and plumps the appearance of fine lines.
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