Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientEmulsifierPolysorbate 20
INCI: Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 20 is a polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate — a synthetic, water-soluble nonionic emulsifier derived from sorbitol, lauric acid (a fatty acid found in coconut and palm kernel oil), and ethylene oxide. It works by reducing surface tension between oil and water phases, enabling them to blend into stable, uniform emulsions. It also functions as a solubiliser, helping oil-soluble ingredients (such as fragrances and essential oils) to remain evenly dispersed in water-based formulas.
Category
Emulsifier
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, dry, oily, combination, sensitive, acne-prone
What does this do in a formula?
emulsification, oil and water blending, texture stabilisation, solubilisation of oils and fragrances in water-based formulas, mild skin cleansing
Is Polysorbate 20 safe? Key considerations
Can Polysorbate 20 cause irritation?
Low RiskIrritancy rating of 0 on the INCIDecoder scale — among the least irritating cosmetic emulsifiers. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that polysorbate 20 is safe as used in cosmetic formulations. No EU CosIng Annex II (banned) or Annex III (restricted) listings apply. Rare sensitivity reactions are possible in individuals with known polyethylene glycol (PEG) hypersensitivity.
Does Polysorbate 20 increase sun sensitivity?
No RiskPolysorbate 20 is not a photosensitising ingredient. No additional sun protection is required based on its presence in a formulation.
Is Polysorbate 20 safe during pregnancy?
SafePolysorbate 20 is considered safe for use during pregnancy at normal cosmetic concentrations. It is widely used in pharmaceutical and food products, and no reproductive or developmental toxicity concerns are noted in available safety literature. No restrictions are noted in EWG or MotherToBaby databases for topical cosmetic use.
How does Polysorbate 20 work?
Polysorbate 20 is a polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate — a synthetic, water-soluble nonionic emulsifier derived from sorbitol, lauric acid (a fatty acid found in coconut and palm kernel oil), and ethylene oxide. It works by reducing surface tension between oil and water phases, enabling them to blend into stable, uniform emulsions. It also functions as a solubiliser, helping oil-soluble ingredients (such as fragrances and essential oils) to remain evenly dispersed in water-based formulas.
Individuals with known PEG (polyethylene glycol) hypersensitivity should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Polysorbate 20?
Shop products that contain Polysorbate 20
Caffeine Eye Cream
Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Supersize Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Collagen Peptide Serum
Retinol Serum
Retinol Eye Cream
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides)
Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum
Matrixyl 10% + HA
Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum
AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Marine Hyaluronics
Sulphate 4% Cleanser for Body and Hair
Salicylic Acid 2% Masque
Amino Acids + B5
