Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientEmulsifierPolysorbate 80
INCI: Polysorbate 80
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid (a fatty acid from olive oil) through polyethoxylation. It works by reducing surface tension between oil and water phases, allowing them to mix and remain stable in a formulation. It is one of the polysorbate family of emulsifiers — higher numbers indicate greater oleate content and stronger emulsifying power, making polysorbate 80 suited to heavier creams and serums compared to lower-numbered variants.
Category
Emulsifier
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, oily, dry, combination, sensitive, acne-prone
What does this do in a formula?
emulsification, stabilising oil-water formulations, improving texture and spreadability, solubilising fragrance and essential oils
Is Polysorbate 80 safe? Key considerations
Can Polysorbate 80 cause irritation?
Low RiskIrritancy rating of 0 on the INCIDecoder scale — one of the least irritating cosmetic emulsifiers. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded polysorbate 80 is safe as used in cosmetics at current concentrations. No EU CosIng Annex II (banned) or Annex III (restricted) listings apply. Rare cases of contact sensitisation have been reported at very high concentrations, but this is not a concern at typical cosmetic use levels.
Does Polysorbate 80 increase sun sensitivity?
No RiskPolysorbate 80 does not increase photosensitivity. No special sun protection measures are required based on the presence of this ingredient in a formulation.
Is Polysorbate 80 safe during pregnancy?
SafePolysorbate 80 is considered safe for use during pregnancy at cosmetic concentrations. It is used in pharmaceutical formulations and food products as well as cosmetics, and no reproductive or developmental concerns have been identified at typical exposure levels. No restrictions are noted in EWG or MotherToBaby databases for topical cosmetic use.
How does Polysorbate 80 work?
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid (a fatty acid from olive oil) through polyethoxylation. It works by reducing surface tension between oil and water phases, allowing them to mix and remain stable in a formulation. It is one of the polysorbate family of emulsifiers — higher numbers indicate greater oleate content and stronger emulsifying power, making polysorbate 80 suited to heavier creams and serums compared to lower-numbered variants.
Individuals with MANUAL REVIEW: Very rarely, individuals with polyethylene glycol (PEG) sensitivity may react to polysorbate 80 — patch test recommended for known PEG-sensitive individuals should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Polysorbate 80?
Shop products that contain Polysorbate 80
