Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientSkin Brightening AgentINCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a synthesised derivative that combines azelaic acid with the amino acid glycine. It was developed to overcome azelaic acid's poor solubility in both water and oil formulations, while retaining its therapeutic properties. It inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity to reduce melanin production, and provides anti-inflammatory and sebum-normalising benefits.
Category
Skin Brightening Agent
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
hyperpigmentation, acne-prone, rosacea-prone, melasma, oily, combination, sensitive skin
skin brightening, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-acne, sebum normalisation, anti-inflammatory, rosacea management, melasma improvement
Significantly gentler than pure azelaic acid due to the glycine conjugation. Well tolerated in clinical studies. Not listed under EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions.
Does not increase photosensitivity. However, as a brightening agent targeting pigmentation, daily SPF use is recommended to maintain results.
Azelaic acid (the parent compound) is generally considered safe during pregnancy and is one of the few acne-treatment actives recommended for pregnant individuals. This milder derivative is expected to carry the same low-risk profile, though specific studies on this derivative in pregnancy are limited.
Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a synthesised derivative that combines azelaic acid with the amino acid glycine. It was developed to overcome azelaic acid's poor solubility in both water and oil formulations, while retaining its therapeutic properties. It inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity to reduce melanin production, and provides anti-inflammatory and sebum-normalising benefits.
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