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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientRetinoid

Retinol

INCI: Retinol

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one of the most well-researched anti-ageing skincare ingredients. It is a cell-communicating ingredient that must be converted in the skin through two enzymatic steps (retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid) before it becomes biologically active. It is approximately 10–20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin, making it more tolerable for OTC use.

Category

Retinoid

Irritation Risk

Medium

Skin Types

oily, acne-prone, anti-ageing concerns, hyperpigmentation, dull skin, uneven texture

What does this do in a formula?

anti-ageing, wrinkle reduction, collagen stimulation, skin firming, cell turnover, brightening, smoothing texture, acne treatment, pore minimising, fading hyperpigmentation

Is Retinol safe? Key considerations

Can Retinol cause irritation?

Medium Risk

Retinol is significantly better tolerated than prescription retinoic acid but can still cause initial redness, dryness, flaking, and sensitivity — especially at concentrations above 0.5% or when first introduced. Beginners should start with 0.1–0.25% applied 2–3 times per week and build up gradually. The 'sandwich method' (applying between moisturiser layers) can reduce irritation.

Does Retinol increase sun sensitivity?

Yes Risk

Retinol increases photosensitivity and should be used as part of a PM routine only. Daily SPF 30+ is strongly recommended during treatment, as the skin is more vulnerable to UV-induced damage while using retinoids.

Is Retinol safe during pregnancy?

Avoid

All topical retinoids, including retinol, are advised to be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding. While systemic absorption from topical OTC retinol is low, the teratogenic risk associated with the retinoid class means avoidance is the standard clinical recommendation. Consult a healthcare provider.

How does Retinol work?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one of the most well-researched anti-ageing skincare ingredients. It is a cell-communicating ingredient that must be converted in the skin through two enzymatic steps (retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid) before it becomes biologically active. It is approximately 10–20 times less potent than prescription tretinoin, making it more tolerable for OTC use.

Individuals with pregnancy, breastfeeding, sensitive skin (without medical guidance), rosacea, eczema, active sunburn, open wounds should review the considerations above before use.