Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientSurfactant / Cleansing AgentINCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a mild, amino acid-based anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and L-glutamic acid (an amino acid naturally found in skin). It works by selectively solubilising surface oils, dirt, and makeup while preserving structural skin lipids such as ceramides and cholesterol — making it significantly less disruptive to the skin barrier than traditional sulphate surfactants. When broken down by skin enzymes, it releases glutamic acid, which contributes to the skin's natural moisturising factors.
Category
Surfactant / Cleansing Agent
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, sensitive, acne-prone, oily, dry, combination, rosacea-prone
gentle cleansing, skin barrier preservation, low irritation, biodegradable, pH-supportive, mild foam production, natural moisturising factor support
One of the mildest surfactant classes available. Peer-reviewed studies (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2019, Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2017, International Journal of Toxicology 2017) confirm it is non-irritating at typical cosmetic concentrations. The CIR Expert Panel concluded amino acid alkyl amides are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply. Suitable for sensitive and allergy-prone skin.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate has no photosensitising properties. It is a rinse-off surfactant used in cleansers and does not increase UV sensitivity. No special sun protection measures are required.
Limited specific reproductive/developmental toxicity studies exist for this ingredient, but no known risks have been identified. The CIR Expert Panel concluded amino acid alkyl amides are safe in cosmetics at current use concentrations. Motherfigure rates it as 'limited data suggests no known risk'. As a rinse-off cleansing ingredient at low concentrations, systemic absorption is negligible.
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a mild, amino acid-based anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil and L-glutamic acid (an amino acid naturally found in skin). It works by selectively solubilising surface oils, dirt, and makeup while preserving structural skin lipids such as ceramides and cholesterol — making it significantly less disruptive to the skin barrier than traditional sulphate surfactants. When broken down by skin enzymes, it releases glutamic acid, which contributes to the skin's natural moisturising factors.
Individuals with known allergy to coconut-derived ingredients (rare) should review the considerations above before use.
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