Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientEmollientINCI: Diisopropyl Sebacate
Diisopropyl sebacate is a synthetic diester of isopropyl alcohol and sebacic acid (a dicarboxylic acid derived from castor oil). It is a clear, colourless, practically odourless lightweight liquid that functions as an emollient, solvent, and plasticiser in cosmetic formulations. It works by filling microscopic gaps between skin cells to improve softness, and dissolves oil-soluble actives such as UV filters and fragrances.
Category
Emollient
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
oily, combination, normal, dry, sensitive
skin softening, non-greasy emolliency, enhanced spreadability, solubilising UV filters, lightweight texture, rapid absorption
Considered minimally irritating based on CIR Expert Panel data — only mild eye irritation was observed in animal studies at high concentrations. Note: one study found diisopropyl sebacate can facilitate skin sensitisation to certain haptens (FITC) via TRPA1 receptor activation, though this is not considered a standard sensitisation concern at typical cosmetic use levels. No EU CosIng Annex II (banned) or Annex III (restricted) classifications apply.
Diisopropyl sebacate does not absorb UV light and does not increase photosensitivity. It is in fact commonly used as a solvent to enhance the performance and SPF of sunscreen formulations.
No evidence links topical diisopropyl sebacate to developmental or hormonal concerns, and ECHA registration data does not classify it for reproductive toxicity. It is generally viewed as low risk during pregnancy for topical use. However, as with all cosmetic ingredients, consultation with a healthcare provider is recommended.
Diisopropyl sebacate is a synthetic diester of isopropyl alcohol and sebacic acid (a dicarboxylic acid derived from castor oil). It is a clear, colourless, practically odourless lightweight liquid that functions as an emollient, solvent, and plasticiser in cosmetic formulations. It works by filling microscopic gaps between skin cells to improve softness, and dissolves oil-soluble actives such as UV filters and fragrances.
Individuals with known allergy to sebacate esters should review the considerations above before use.
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