The Skin Formulary

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23 ingredients

Emollient

Explore all 23 ingredients in the Emollient category. Learn about their benefits and find products that contain them.

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a natural fat extracted from the seeds of the African shea (karite) tree, Butyrospermum parkii. It is rich in fatty acids (oleic, stearic, linoleic, palmitic), triterpenes, and antioxidant vitamins A, E, and F, which work together to deeply moisturise, condition, and protect the skin barrier. Its anti-inflammatory triterpene content also helps soothe irritated skin and supports cell regeneration.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a synthetic ester made by combining benzoic acid with fatty alcohols of 12 to 15 carbon chain lengths. It functions as a lightweight emollient and skin-conditioning agent, imparting a smooth, silky, non-greasy feel to formulations. It is also widely used as a solvent and dispersant for UV filters in sunscreen products.

C10-18 Triglycerides

C10-18 Triglycerides are a mixture of glycerol esters derived from medium-chain fatty acids with carbon chain lengths of 10 to 18. They function primarily as emollients and skin-conditioning agents, forming a lightweight occlusive layer that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss. They also act as solvents, aiding in the dissolution and delivery of other cosmetic actives.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a lightweight, clear, odourless oil derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is an ester formed from glycerol and a blend of caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) fatty acids, which gives it a non-greasy, fast-absorbing texture. It functions primarily as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, forming a breathable occlusive layer on the skin surface that helps reduce transepidermal water loss.

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is an ester derived from pentaerythritol and isostearic acid, used primarily as an emollient and emulsifying agent in cosmetics. It forms a lightweight, non-greasy film on the skin that imparts a rich, cushiony texture and enhances gloss without leaving a sticky residue. It is widely used in lip care and colour cosmetics for its water-resistance and long-wearing properties.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol (hexadecan-1-ol, C16H34O) derived from coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or petroleum. Despite its name, it behaves nothing like drying alcohols such as ethanol — it is a waxy solid that acts as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener, helping to create smooth, stable cream and lotion textures. It softens and conditions the skin by forming a protective film on the surface that reduces moisture loss.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated polyisobutene is a synthetic liquid oil derived from the hydrogenation of polyisobutene, a polymer of isobutylene. It functions as an emollient and viscosity-controlling agent, forming a lightweight, non-greasy film on the skin that softens and smooths without the heaviness of mineral oil. Available in a range of molecular weights, it can be tuned from a volatile, light-feel oil to a richer, more occlusive texture depending on formulation needs.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Ethylhexyl palmitate is an ester formed from 2-ethylhexanol and palmitic acid (a fatty acid derived from palm oil). It functions as a medium-spreading emollient that softens skin, adds richness to formulas, and imparts a mild, non-greasy feel on application. It is frequently used as a lighter alternative to mineral oil in cleansing oils, balms, and colour cosmetics.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created by reacting fatty alcohols from coconut oil (C12–C18) with caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10). It functions as a skin-conditioning emollient that softens the skin surface and reduces transepidermal water loss. It absorbs quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish without a greasy residue.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax is a natural hard wax extracted from the seeds of the sunflower plant (Helianthus annuus, Asteraceae family). It acts primarily as an emollient and skin conditioning agent, forming a protective layer on the skin surface that helps lock in moisture and smooth skin texture. Its high melting point makes it a popular structuring agent in solid formulations such as lip balms, stick sunscreens, and solid moisturisers.

Jojoba Seed Oil

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, commonly known as jojoba oil, is a liquid wax ester pressed from the seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis. Unlike most plant oils, which are triglycerides, jojoba is a wax ester — making it chemically very similar to human sebum and exceptionally stable at high temperatures. It moisturises through a dual mechanism: forming a light semi-occlusive barrier on the skin surface while also absorbing into the upper skin layers.

Sunflower Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a lightweight plant oil cold-pressed from sunflower seeds (Helianthus annuus L., Compositae family). It is exceptionally rich in linoleic acid (50–74%) and oleic acid (14–35%), fatty acids that closely mimic the skin's own lipid barrier. It works primarily as an emollient, smoothing and softening the skin surface while forming a light occlusive film that helps lock in moisture and support barrier repair.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dicaprylyl carbonate is an ester formed by combining carbonic acid with two molecules of caprylyl alcohol, an eight-carbon fatty alcohol derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. It functions as a lightweight, fast-spreading emollient and skin-conditioning agent that creates a dry, non-greasy finish on skin. It also acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve and disperse UV filters, pigments, and other ingredients in a formulation.

Squalane

Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon (C30H62) naturally found in human sebum and derived from plant sources such as sugarcane, olives, and amaranth seed. It functions as a highly effective emollient and skin-identical ingredient, mimicking the skin's own oils to soften and smooth the skin barrier without heaviness or greasiness.

Phospholipids

Phospholipids are naturally occurring molecules composed of a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails, and a phosphate group, making up approximately 75% of all cell membranes. Their amphiphilic structure (water-loving head, fat-loving tails) allows them to act as emollients, emulsifiers, and skin-identical barrier lipids in cosmetic formulations. They are commonly derived from soybeans, sunflower seeds, or egg yolk, and are widely used to form liposomes — microscopic delivery vehicles that enhance penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

Mango Seed Butter

Mangifera indica seed butter (mango seed butter) is a soft, off-white to ivory fat extracted from the kernels of mango fruit. It is rich in stearic and oleic fatty acids, antioxidant phenolic compounds including ferulic acid, and provides almost all essential amino acids. As an emollient and skin conditioning agent, it softens and smooths skin by forming a protective barrier that reduces transepidermal water loss.

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Diisopropyl sebacate is a synthetic diester of isopropyl alcohol and sebacic acid (a dicarboxylic acid derived from castor oil). It is a clear, colourless, practically odourless lightweight liquid that functions as an emollient, solvent, and plasticiser in cosmetic formulations. It works by filling microscopic gaps between skin cells to improve softness, and dissolves oil-soluble actives such as UV filters and fragrances.

Coconut Alkanes

Coconut Alkanes is a volatile, naturally derived hydrocarbon ingredient produced by the complete reduction and hydrogenation of fatty acids from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil. It functions as a lightweight emollient and solvent, imparting a smooth, silky skin feel without leaving a heavy residue. Because it is volatile, it largely evaporates from the skin surface after application, making it a popular plant-based alternative to volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane.

Oat Kernal Oil

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil is the fixed oil cold-pressed from the kernels of the oat plant (Avena sativa L., Poaceae). It is rich in linoleic acid (35–45%) and oleic acid (25–35%), with a fatty acid profile closely resembling the skin's natural lipid barrier, making it highly compatible with skin. It works primarily as an emollient, softening the skin surface, replenishing intercellular lipids, and reducing transepidermal water loss to maintain hydration and suppleness.

Oat Kernal Flour

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour is a finely milled powder obtained from grinding oat (Avena sativa) kernels, retaining the starches, proteins, lipids, beta-glucans, and antioxidant avenanthramides naturally present in oats. It functions as an emollient, absorbent, and mild physical exfoliant that forms a protective film on the skin surface to retain moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss. Its beta-glucan and avenanthramide content deliver well-documented anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antioxidant effects, making it a cornerstone ingredient in sensitive and compromised skin formulations.

Oleic Acid

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid found abundantly in plant oils such as olive, avocado, macadamia, and marula oils. It works by integrating into the skin's lipid barrier, softening and conditioning the skin while also functioning as a penetration enhancer that helps other actives absorb more effectively. Its relatively large, non-polar molecular structure makes it highly nourishing but means it sits heavier on the skin than linoleic acid-rich alternatives.

Octyldodecanol

Octyldodecanol (INCI: Octyldodecanol; IUPAC: 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol) is a long-chain fatty alcohol derived from natural fats and oils — typically coconut or palm — through reduction of fatty acid groups. It functions primarily as an emollient, filling gaps between skin cells to deliver a smooth, silky, non-greasy skin feel. It is also used as a solvent (particularly for UV filters and pigments) and as a masking agent in fragrance compositions.

Oryza Sativa Lipids

Oryza Sativa Lipids are the lipid fraction isolated from rice (Oryza sativa L.), primarily composed of fatty acids including oleic acid (~38%), linoleic acid (~34%), palmitic, and stearic acids, along with antioxidants such as gamma-oryzanol, tocopherols, and tocotrienols. They function as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, softening and smoothing the skin while reinforcing the lipid barrier to reduce transepidermal water loss. The balanced fatty acid profile closely resembles skin's natural lipids, making them well tolerated and readily absorbed.