Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams
Formula IngredientEmollientPhospholipids
INCI: Phospholipids
Phospholipids are naturally occurring molecules composed of a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails, and a phosphate group, making up approximately 75% of all cell membranes. Their amphiphilic structure (water-loving head, fat-loving tails) allows them to act as emollients, emulsifiers, and skin-identical barrier lipids in cosmetic formulations. They are commonly derived from soybeans, sunflower seeds, or egg yolk, and are widely used to form liposomes — microscopic delivery vehicles that enhance penetration of active ingredients into the skin.
Category
Emollient
Irritation Risk
Low
Skin Types
all skin types, dry, mature, sensitive, acne-prone, dehydrated
What does this do in a formula?
skin barrier repair and support, moisture retention, emollient hydration, enhanced active ingredient delivery via liposome encapsulation, improved skin elasticity and smoothness, emulsification
Is Phospholipids safe? Key considerations
Can Phospholipids cause irritation?
Low RiskPhospholipids have an excellent safety record with only rare reports of irritation, typically associated with seed or egg allergies rather than the ingredient itself. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel concluded that the 17 phosphoglycerides are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. All tested phospholipid products showed the same lack of irritation potential as non-irritating controls. No EU CosIng Annex II or III restrictions apply.
Does Phospholipids increase sun sensitivity?
No RiskPhospholipids are not photosensitising and do not increase UV sensitivity. No special sun protection measures are required based on their presence in a formulation. Suitable for both daytime and night-time use.
Is Phospholipids safe during pregnancy?
SafeCurrent research shows no concerns for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Animal studies on phosphatidylserine (a phospholipid type) in pregnant rats and rabbits showed no treatment-related adverse effects on fetal development, litter size, or fetal weight. The CIR panel has affirmed overall safety. Pregnant individuals should still consult their healthcare provider before changing their skincare routine (source: Motherfigure, CIR).
How does Phospholipids work?
Phospholipids are naturally occurring molecules composed of a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails, and a phosphate group, making up approximately 75% of all cell membranes. Their amphiphilic structure (water-loving head, fat-loving tails) allows them to act as emollients, emulsifiers, and skin-identical barrier lipids in cosmetic formulations. They are commonly derived from soybeans, sunflower seeds, or egg yolk, and are widely used to form liposomes — microscopic delivery vehicles that enhance penetration of active ingredients into the skin.
Individuals with soy allergy, sunflower seed allergy, egg allergy (depending on source) should review the considerations above before use.
Which products contain Phospholipids?
Shop products that contain Phospholipids
Starter Retinol Serum
Caffeine Eye Cream
10% Niacinamide Serum
1% Retinol Serum
Retinol Serum
Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (with Ceramides)
UV Filters SPF 45 Serum
Natural Moisturizing Factors + Beta Glucan
