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Researched by Helena DeMaria-Williams

Formula IngredientUV Filter

Octocrylene

INCI: Octocrylene

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic chemical UV filter (INCI: Octocrylene) that absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA II radiation, with peak absorption at 304 nm. It works by converting UV energy into heat, preventing it from penetrating the skin. Beyond direct UV protection, it is valued in formulations for its ability to photostabilise other UV filters — particularly avobenzone — and for improving the water resistance of sunscreen products.

Category

UV Filter

Irritation Risk

Medium

Skin Types

most skin types when not previously sensitised to ketoprofen

What does this do in a formula?

UVB protection, UVA II protection, photostabilisation of avobenzone, improved water resistance of sunscreen formulas

Is Octocrylene safe? Key considerations

Can Octocrylene cause irritation?

Medium Risk

Octocrylene is a documented photocontact allergen — photo-allergic contact dermatitis is the predominant concern, occurring especially in adults who have previously been sensitised to the NSAID ketoprofen (a substituted benzophenone). Contact allergy without UV exposure is rarer and observed more often in children. In patch-test populations, photocontact allergy was observed in approximately 4% of sensitised patients and contact allergy in 0.7%. Reactions are rare in the general population but the risk is non-trivial. Additionally, octocrylene degrades over time into benzophenone, a known sensitiser and endocrine disruptor, which may accumulate in products. EU Annex VI (Commission Regulation (EU) 2022/1176) restricts octocrylene to 10% in non-spray products and 9% in propellant spray products; benzophenone as a degradation product must be kept at trace levels.

Does Octocrylene increase sun sensitivity?

No Risk

Octocrylene is itself a UV filter and does not increase photosensitivity to the sun. However, individuals who are already sensitised to ketoprofen may develop photocontact allergic reactions when octocrylene is applied and the skin is subsequently exposed to sunlight.

Is Octocrylene safe during pregnancy?

Caution

There is evidence that octocrylene has reproductive toxicity concerns. Its primary degradation product, benzophenone, is a known endocrine disruptor associated with altered thyroid hormones in pregnant women and effects on reproductive development in offspring. Studies have detected systemic absorption through skin. Most dermatologists and safety bodies advise caution during pregnancy; some recommend avoiding octocrylene-containing products altogether, particularly leave-on formulations. Consult a healthcare provider before use during pregnancy. (Sources: EWG Sunscreen Guide; Endocrine and Reproductive Health Considerations of Sunscreen UV Filters, PMC 2024.)

How does Octocrylene work?

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic chemical UV filter (INCI: Octocrylene) that absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA II radiation, with peak absorption at 304 nm. It works by converting UV energy into heat, preventing it from penetrating the skin. Beyond direct UV protection, it is valued in formulations for its ability to photostabilise other UV filters — particularly avobenzone — and for improving the water resistance of sunscreen products.

Individuals with ketoprofen allergy or prior photocontact allergy to octocrylene, children with sensitive skin, pregnancy (caution advised), those seeking reef-safe or endocrine-disruptor-free formulas should review the considerations above before use.